The kitchen is open-

The Ulster Fry. Northern Ireland's signature breakfast. Not "Ulster Fry" nor simply "Ulster. " THE Ulster Fry. Just as Belfast-born musical legend Van Morrison is known formally as Sir George Ivan Morrison, OBE, a dish like this is well-deserving of a sturdy name and the article that precedes it. Aptly described in Biddy White Lennon's Best of Irish Traditional Cooking, "If you thought The Full Irish was a big breakfast, it's only in the ha 'penny place by comparison with the breakfast of our northern relatives!" We enjoyed a Full Irish or two during a 2015 visit to the Republic of Ireland, a trip that came about rather haphazardly from the idea that it would be really cool to see Van Morrison perform in his native land. We couldn't decide which breakfast we preferred - the one served with fine silver and linens at the Merrion Hotel in Dublin, or another at a modest bed and breakfast in Tullamore, prepared with care by a mom while her "Young Patrick" completed his school work in the next room. Either way, we bring you Northern Ireland's ramped up version from our own kitchen with longing for Belfast and the sounds of Van.​

The Ulster Fry
bacon rashers  |  pork sausages  | black and white pudding  | tomatoes  | mushrooms  
boxty | griddle bread

Boxty on the griddle, boxty on the pan,
if you can't bake boxty sure you'll never get a man!

Irish Stew
Champ  | Buttered Carrots

There was an old woman
who lived in a lamp,
She had no room
to beetle her champ.
She's up'd with her beetle
and broke the lamp,
and now she has room
to beetle her champ.

SIDE DISH

Among my favorite Christmas moments was watching Doug's face when he pulled Van Morrison concert tickets from his stocking. Van Morrison. Live. In Cork? We looked at each other and realized, "We're going to Ireland!" Even after arriving in the Emerald Isle, he still didn't believe it was happening, and acquiesced only at will call once actual tickets were in hand. It was an experience to behold, especially learning (after the fact) that Van the Man was lodging at our manor and that we breakfasted in the next room from him. Alas, we never met, but we'll always have "Days Like This" in a tent in Cork. 

 The kitchen is open-

Prior to creating this post, our knowledge of Ethiopian cuisine was limited to a dining experience in Washington D.C. While Morocco and South Africa have piqued our Africa wander interest, Ethiopia not so much. That is, until we cooked virtually alongside Ethiopian-born Marcus Sameulsson.  Chef Sameulsson guided us through preparing a perfect roast chicken, universally relatable comfort food with Ethiopian oomph. Tasting his berbere - the "salt and pepper of East Africa" - that jazzed up a buttery niter kibbeh and a side of couscous and chickpeas - encouraged us to explore other Ethiopian dishes and, naturally, try our hand at sourdough flatbread. "First time?" a helpful local Ethiopian grocer asked when I approached the checkout counter with pouches of ancient teff flour. Thanks to him, I left instead with a pizza box of fresh, already prepared injera, and thanks to Chef Samuelsson, KT looked through a different window into a fascinating culture.​

Yetsom Beyaynetu
Misir Wat  |  Ye'abesha Gomen   |  Timatim  ​ |  Dinich Salata  ​ |  Injera

Enkulal FirFir  
Roasted Berbere Potatoes |  Injera​

          SIDE DISH

Just as KT steered from the 4-5-day fermentation of injera batter, we decided a jebena buna ceremony would be better left to experience in country. The hours-long ritual begins with roasting, grinding and boiling coffee beans in the presence of guests, followed by multiple pours in and out of ornate vessels, noshing popcorn along the way. I can't wait.


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​​Kitchen Traveler is the creative brainchild of Michele McMurry and husband Doug, who together recreate global flavors from their cozy galley kitchen in San Antonio, Texas. While our passion for wandering and savoring is not new, our appreciation for such experiences ─ that for now remain on hold ─ is deeper than ever.